Thoughts on cooking real food from one of my favorite writers, Nigel Slater:
I passionately believe that anyone can make themselves something good to eat. Cooking is a whole lot easier than many people think. Good cooking–real cooking–is within the grasp of anyone with an appetite and a few pots and pans. There is nothing difficult about it (it is only supper after all), so we can pretty much ignore all that stuff about it being “an art,” “a science” or “a gift.”
It takes no expertise to heat some butter and a squashed clove of garlic in a shallow pan till it froths and bubbles, then slide in a piece of chicken. Let it cook till its skin is crisp and golden, then squeeze in half a lemon and serve it with its pan juices and a leafy salad to mop them up. Anyone can slap a lamb chop on a hot grill pan, throw a handful of pasta into bubbling water or put an apple to bake in a hot oven. I work from the not unreasonable premise that if someone can make a cup of coffee then they can probably roast themselves a chicken.
Real cooking is not about making fancy stocks and sauces, piping purees and perfecting spun-sugar baskets. Real cooking is about making ourselves something to eat that involves a bit of simple roasting, grilling or frying. Nothing complicated. But it is cooking, rather than opening a packet or a tin. As you will see, real cooking is also about the little things–the small points that turn straightforward cooking into good cooking. The attention to detail that makes a simple supper into something sublime.
What makes something really good to eat? What is the difference between cooking something that is merely fuel and something that is a joy to devour? It is certainly not the need to make our cooking more complicated, neither is it an art that we must have at our fingertips. It is simply the understanding of the little things that make something especially good; the golden, savory goo that builds up under a pork chop you have left to cook slowly in its pan; the intense flavor of the bits of lamb that have caught on the bars of the grill; the gravy that you make from the sticky bits left in the pan after you have sauteed some chicken thighs. This is real cooking. The roast potato that sticks to the roasting tin; the crouton from the salad that has soaked up the mustardy dressing; the underneath of the crust of a blackberry and apple pie, rich with purple juice; these are the things that make something worth eating. And worth cooking.
Grilled Peach Salad with Buffalo Mozzarella & Arugula
6 peaches, cut in half and pitted
salt
3-4 large handfuls arugula, washed and dried
1 small red onion, slivered
5 oz. buffalo mozarella or other fresh mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces
4 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar
2 tsp. honey
2 tsp. dijon or whole grain mustard
2 Tbs. minced chives
1/3 c. olive oil
2 Tbs. creme fraiche or 1 Tbs. heavy cream
Light a fire in grill and let it burn down to med-hot. I like to build the fire on one side of the grill so I can move things around to different temperatures. Lightly salt the cut sides of the peaches, drizzle very lightly with olive oil and place cut side down on the grill. When the peaches are charred and just beginning to soften, remove them to a platter and set aside. Make the dressing: place vinegar, honey, mustard and chives in a small bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil until emulsified. Whisk in the creme fraiche or cream. Toss arugula and onion with vinaigrette and place on serving platter or dish. Nestle peaches and mozzarella amongst greens and drizzle with a little more dressing. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and serve.
weavert on said:
I made this the other night, but I didn’t have any arugula, so I used spinach. It was really good!! I love the combination of the juicy sweet peaches and onion. The vinaigrette is excellent too! I’m going to start grilling more of my fruit, it seems to really bring out its flavor.
farmhousetable on said:
yum! I love sweet, savory, smoky fruit from the grill.
Carol on said:
YUM! Just learned about you through Edible Austin and I just WISH I lived in Austin so I could enjoy your great services and attend more eat local and foodie things. Alas, I am in New Braunfels and that trip is a wee bit too long for me since I have a young family and the delivery is a wee bit too far for you. : ( BEAUTIFUL website and blog BTW
farmhousetable on said:
Awww, I wish so too! We might come to New Braunfels one day soon, if we get enough interest there. So, send in your name and address to Jesse at info@farmhousedelivery.com and she’ll let you know when we start sending deliveries that way!
Kristi on said:
Have been a lurker for a while . . .our mutual friend Erin turned me on to your blog. Love your writing and the photography, have shared this site blog with lots of friends. Finally got up the courage to attempt this recipe last night and it and I were both wildly successful! Thanks for sharing it.
farmhousetable on said:
Thanks Kristi–so glad you enjoyed it! Stay in touch!
Lan on said:
i once met a man who told me that grilled peaches is life changing, he was so passionate about it as he described how the fruit turned from everyday mundane to the most delectable tasting thing he’d ever had. unfortunately, living in an apartment i don’t have a grill so i have not tasted this treat. remember this story and seeing your salad is making me so very wistful that i can’t try it.
do you think if i broiled it in the oven, it would work?
farmhousetable on said:
hmmmm . . . while I have never thought of in season peaches as mundane, I can certainly relate to the sense of the grilled peaches being life-changing. what about a cook-out at a park? most have charcoal grills. that could be fun!
Leslie on said:
Can you do the peaches in the oven? Under a broiler?
admin on said:
I bet you could! they would be a lot juicier though. If you try it, let us know how it works.
melissa on said:
I also live in an apartment in San Francisco. Grilling (even in a park is not always an option). So tonight I am grilling it on a cast iron. It won’t be the same, but it’s the compromise us city folk have to take!
brenda marino on said:
Awsome looking, will serve at my next get-together!!!!! My mouth is watering, forget it — I’ll fix it for myself today .
jacin on said:
yum this looks amazing!!!! i bet with burrata or ricotta it’d be yummy too! thanks for this recipe, excited to have found your blog!
admin on said:
I think pretty much anything with burrata is amazing!
Joy Barreiro on said:
Hi, I chanced upon this photo in Pinterest. We don’t have peaches where I live. I was wondering what I can substitute? Mangoes? Apples?
Jennirific on said:
can’t wait to try this simple, elegant salad! love the pictures!
melanielovesalligators on said:
Great photos and recipe, def want to try this!
Emiloo on said:
Sorry to be so ignorant, but what is exactly a grill pan? how do you grill indoors? Thank you!!!
admin on said:
hi there! it’s one of those cast iron pans with the ridges–I have one made by le crueset that I love.
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Kate on said:
How many servings does this make? Ay idea of the nutritional info? Just curious… looks delicious.
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Stacia on said:
Hi Lan, I just broiled the peaches because I didn’t have a grill and it turned out great! I broiled them on high for 5 minutes…yum!
alison on said:
This was a great recipe! We made it tonight. I only had brown balsamic but it still tasted great. We paired it with Chardonnay and grilled, buttery tilapia. Thanks for the idea.